Paul Walker Quotes

Big waves are a whole different ball game. You're riding a wave with an immense amount of speed and power, generally over 10 meters. On the face of the wave, obviously life and death thoughts start to happen.

Every day of the year where the water is 76, day and night, and the waves roll high, I take my sled, without runners, and coast down the face of the big waves that roll in at Waikiki.

No one wants to drown. Drowning would be the worst. Cause everyone knows that feeling. That feeling, oh it's the worst... when you think you're drowning.

As I'd go out learning to surf, I'd feel the power of waves coming over my body. It's like you're with God.

Surfing is such an incredible experience with a huge ego element.

If one synchronised swimmer drowns, do all the rest have to drown too?

Rock climbing and surfing are two of my favorite things in life.

Surprisingly, I am great at kiteboarding, but I'm not great at surfing.

Surfing waves of water or clouds of powder snow is the best feeling on earth.

There's a risk to everything you do. You can take off on a one-foot wave and get hurt; you can take off on a ten-foot wave and get hurt. You just don't think about it at all. You just go for it. When you kick out of a really big wave, it feels pretty damn good. You want to do it again.

I looked around and we were about a mile-and-a-half from land, and I thought, 'OK, I'm going to drown now.' And then I started to flail out and panic. I gradually calmed down and I got home. But the reality was that in that moment I was panicking and I feel like that to me was the clue about Ripley, that Ripley constantly finds himself out of his depth in the film and then reacts very, very badly.

I've gotten into surfing a bit. I can't stand up for more than five seconds, but I like the fact that I can paddle out into oblivion.

It's a human desire to be scared. On some level, that's how we survived - that sense of fear and danger. Our lives are much safer, so we gravitate to those stories that makes us feel those things and learn lessons, even if it's just, 'What are you doing? Don't go in the basement!'

I've been surfing several times, and I'm terrible at it. But what I found was that you're usually waiting on the board, hanging out, watching the waves come in. And one that you think is a big wave is not actually one.

I don't like taking physical risks at all. I take a lot of emotional risks, and I don't feel like I need to get on a bike or a horse or jump off of anything ever.

An experience like 'The West Wing' is what I would imagine - even though I've never done it - that surfing feels like. It's, like, 'Whoa! I can just stand up here and ride this without all the anxiety!'

I definitely love to be scared. It draws the primal side out of you.

I actually have a fear of the water because I nearly drowned. I got caught in a rip tide, and I wasn't a good swimmer because that was when I was emigrating from England to Australia.

I love to swim in the ocean in big waves.

I broke my jaw jumping, and I broke my back and my neck in the downhill. This is normal for me.

I take a lot of risks in the ring.

I surfed until I was 18, and being the athlete that I am, I got really frustrated with how I wasn't really getting any better.

Many beach locales offer surf lessons, and you get a different perspective of the ocean when you're out on the water.

If people are shooting at you, it's human nature to be afraid. I was afraid. I'll be quite blunt about that.

We have this amazing ability to turn on the exactly same stress response worrying about a mortgage that a zebra does when it's sprinting away from a lion.