I've been surfing so many years and it's a pretty strong part of my life so I'm not gonna give that up.
Mike Clark, who's a really amazing surfer, got me back into surfing. I surfed a lot from '82 to '86, and then I kind of started slacking.
I surfed competitively from age 13 to 18. Every day, before and after school. I wanted to surf for the rest of my life. It's what all my friends did - I even had it as a subject in school for a number of years.
Working on my first novel, 'Groundswell' - about a woman recovering from a bad breakup who falls in love with surfing - I spent a month south of the border. And when I wasn't writing or surfing, I was eating. A lot.
In the end, my love for surfing helped me overcome my fear of sharks.
Surfing is my passion because I love being active on the water.
When I'm 50 I want to be a better surfer than I am now - for me it's a lifelong journey.
Both of my parents are surfers, of course, so they understood where my passion for surfing was at and I guess they saw the talent that I had.
Since I was 14. I grew up surfing. That's all I wanted to do.
I got really into surfing, and that was my life from when I was 10 years old to 18. I surfed almost every day, and it was all I cared about - I was a sand-in-the-bed, total beach bum.
Surf is something I have been obsessed with since I was a child.
I don't know how long I'll be competing, but I'll always be surfing. I'll be surfing until I'm old.
If you're a surfer, you just want to surf. You don't know if anyone's going to see you, and you don't really care if they see you. You just live for that feeling.
I just love being on the ocean and being creative on the waves and the feeling you get when you're surfing. All around it's beautiful and fun.
After God and my family, it's surf. I don't imagine me not surfing. Surf brings me smile every day.
I want to surf better tomorrow. I want to surf better in 10 years. When I'm 50 I want to be a better surfer than I am now - for me it's a lifelong journey.
I've committed to surfing the rest of my life.
I surf more now for other people than myself. I feel a lot of support from people wanting me to do well, and I feed off that. I can send a positive message to people from what I do.
I love the ocean and have a passion for surfing, even though I'm not very good at it. I like getting out there and paddling around.
I've been surfing for a couple years, in the offseason in California and in Hawaii. I'm not very good, but it's just something that to be out there in the water, no cell phone, no music... very few sports are as pure as that.
If I didn't follow my passion for surfing... I would have never come up with the concept to make a wrist camera.
The insanely gorgeous competition documentary on surfing obsession, Step Into Liquid — directed by Dana Brown and photographed by John-Paul Beeghly in hypnotic gradations of aquamarine — will send you into a dream state.
