Bethany Hamilton Quotes

I've been surfing so many years and it's a pretty strong part of my life so I'm not gonna give that up.

I just love being on the ocean and being creative on the waves and the feeling you get when you're surfing. All around it's beautiful and fun.

Surfing is a huge passion of mine. I'm and addict to it in a sense. I think it is a good addiction. I spend about anywhere from two to eight hours a day in the water when I am home. I enjoy competing and traveling. I don't know, I just like being in the ocean and enjoying God's creation. Just the adrenaline you get and its good exercise you get at the same time.

I love the ocean and have a passion for surfing, even though I'm not very good at it. I like getting out there and paddling around.

The insanely gorgeous competition documentary on surfing obsession, Step Into Liquid — directed by Dana Brown and photographed by John-Paul Beeghly in hypnotic gradations of aquamarine — will send you into a dream state.

Surfing is my passion because I love being active on the water.

I hope I'm still shooting when I'm 80.

I don't think anybody ever really just retires where they don't do anything.

When I was 20, journalists would ask me what I would do when I retire from waterpolo. For me this is not just a five- or ten-year-period in my life. This is life itself.

All I care about, to be honest, is surfing. I love surfing more than anything. To me, there's nothing like that.

Surf is something I have been obsessed with since I was a child.

I've been performing since 1955. I'm going to have to keep performing till I die because I'm not going to die in some rocking chair with a big ol' beer belly.

I like to be busy. I once shared an agent with the late Sir John Gielgud, who, at 96, was apparently still ringing up, saying, 'Hello, Gielgud here, any work?' Good on him. We've got to keep working. If we retire, there'll be nobody to play the old wrinklies, and that would be a dreadful shame.

Surfing is definitely something I used to do a lot more before I was working, but I know the waves will always be there, and it's something that, when I'm not traveling as much, I'll definitely get back into.

In the surfing days, that was all there was for me. Sailing, starting around '68, it was kind of the same deal. I always got really into whatever it was I was doing.

Retire? Me? I'll go when they get tired of me at Old Trafford or when I can no longer do the job.

I've skateboarded my whole life, and I'm going to keep enjoying it until my age prohibits me.

I'm gonna be on the Hawaiian beaches when I'm old.

Mike Clark, who's a really amazing surfer, got me back into surfing. I surfed a lot from '82 to '86, and then I kind of started slacking.

After God and my family, it's surf. I don't imagine me not surfing. Surf brings me smile every day.

I feel my absolute best physically, mentally and spiritually when I'm surfing every day.

J-Bay displays the best of people’s surfing.

In the end, my love for surfing helped me overcome my fear of sharks.

I've been surfing for a couple years, in the offseason in California and in Hawaii. I'm not very good, but it's just something that to be out there in the water, no cell phone, no music... very few sports are as pure as that.

Since I was 14. I grew up surfing. That's all I wanted to do.