Keegan Bradley Quotes

For a 7-iron, you never want the ball to be closer to your left heel than just slightly ahead of the mid-point of your stance. That's especially true if you're a tall player, like me.

My short game's not that good. It just becomes a matter of getting that weight moving.

I need to improve my shorter stuff with my irons, from 100 to 175 yards. If I can hit a few more greens with those clubs and tighten up the proximity to the hole, that would help a lot.

You'll find that one-length irons are far more versatile around the greens. You can vary the trajectory more, your distance control will improve because you can choke down more if you want.

Your woods, irons and wedges are built with specific lengths and lie angles, which demand that you stand to the ball a little differently for each one. The secret is to know which elements of your address position remain constant, and which ones you have to tweak to match the club in your hand.

Ball position is everything in iron play. If you aren't careful about it, you can create some major problems in your game just by getting an inch or two off.

Some players like to change clubs around the green to hit high or low shots. I play all of my short-game shots with my 54-degree sand wedge and change my ball position to hit it higher or lower. I think it's easier to learn one club than four.

My strength is short game. I love the creative side to it. You can hit a wedge a million different ways. The flop is my fave.

I typically opt for a fade when I'm hitting into greens. It's just an easier shot to control.

I player my lower-lofted irons slightly higher-up in my stance. Not as much as variable-length, but a little further up can help golfers adapt to the lower-lofted irons.

I like using a 75-percent swing for wedge shots instead of full force.

If you are going to throw a club, it is important to throw it ahead of you, down the fairway, so you don't have to waste energy going back to pick it up.

When you're hitting a fairway wood, you've got a lot of real estate to cover to get to your target. Your first instinct is probably to give it a little more power because you're worried about coming up short.

The game itself, I think, plays into the strength of my game, which has always been tee to green, hitting the ball consistently in play and managing my game. Putting has always been the one thing that's been a bit more erratic.

One of my tendencies is to let the ball drift too far forward in my stance, and it's something I've been working on with David Leadbetter.

Where I fall down is my short game. I don't practice enough, and when I have to take a half swing from 50 yards out, that's trouble.

I will fall in love with any golf course that you have to drive the ball straight. You understand what I'm saying? That's my advantage. My advantage wasn't putting. In fact, I wasn't even a great putter or a good putter.

For the most part, when you play a full shot from the primary rough at your course, you're gauging how close to a standard shot you can hit based on your lie in the grass.

With shorter clubs, your ball position should be just back of middle, to really promote hitting the ball first on a downward strike.

I've got a lot more control with my wedges.

For me, it's the 5- to 7-yard cut with any club. I can choke down on it a little bit, hit it different heights, but that's the shot I'm always going to go to.

I feel usually the strength of my game is my driving, and over the past - even since I was in college and everything, my short game has been the thing that's let me down.

I love to play three-quarter iron shots. They take a lot of extra movement out of the swing, which increases my chance of hitting it solid with the face square to the target.

I have worked hard to improve my consistency in my driving, irons, short game, and putting.

For the average player, most three-putts happen because of a poorly judged first putt from long range.